Correspondence Sent From Greece
In the heart of Southern Greece, where the Aegean Sea meets the towering mountains, lies a landscape strikingly beautiful and steeped in history. This is the setting for a journey that takes us through the Peloponnese peninsula, a region rich in ancient lore and modern-day intrigue.
Our tale begins with the eighth-grade class of a Greek Orthodox Church school embarking on a graduation trip to Greece. The trip, a rite of passage for these young minds, promises to reveal the beauty and complexity of their homeland.
The Peloponnese, a land of contrasts, is a testament to the stalwart warrior ethos of Sparta and the reason, rhetoric, and beauty of Athens. The former, renowned for its stalwart warriors, stands as a symbol of resilience, while the latter, the birthplace of philosophy and democracy, embodies intellectual pursuit and artistic expression.
As we traverse this historical landscape, we cannot help but notice the remnants of the Peloponnesian War, a conflict between Sparta and Athens over 20 centuries ago. The war's outcome, with Sparta emerging victorious with decisive financial support from the Persian Empire, has shaped the course of Greek history.
The trip also reveals the modern-day challenges facing Greece. The city of Athens, for instance, remains burdened by the 2015-16 migrant crisis, with about 150,000 people with refugee status still residing in the city. The streets of Athens are also home to homeless men of Middle Eastern and African origin, adding to the city's complex tapestry.
The economic woes of Greece are also evident, with half-finished houses lining the roadside, a result of economic shocks and an unsteady economy. Protracted negotiations followed a government bond default in 2008, during which the American press reported on the apparent tradition in Greece of not paying taxes.
Despite these challenges, the Greeks remain a resilient people. The Greeks feel fortunate that they are Greek, more due to love of patria and agreeable climate than sanctified names and dates. The country is intensely religious, with the Greek Orthodox Church as the state religion.
The trip also offers glimpses into the traditional Greek way of life. A substantial family meal eaten at home might take 3-4 hours, a testament to the importance placed on family and community. Inhabitants of mountainous monasteries, such as those in the Patras region, continue to live a simple, communal lifestyle, far removed from the urban bustle.
Yet, the Greeks are not immune to the pull of modernity. The feeling is that Athens has left "deep" Greece for something more generically urban and European. This transition, while necessary for progress, has not been without its challenges.
The journey through Southern Greece is a testament to the country's rich history, vibrant culture, and modern-day complexities. It is a reminder that while the Greeks may resent outsiders, they are also courteous and patient, a reflection of their deep-rooted sense of hospitality.
The author, Jonathan Clarke, a contributing editor of City Journal, lawyer, essayist, and critic, provides a compelling narrative of this journey, offering insights into the heart and soul of Greece. The top photo shows the Temple of Aphaia at Aigina, a symbol of the ancient beauty that continues to captivate visitors to this day.
