Embracing Ecuador's native culinary riches, a shift towards indigenous cuisine has been acknowledged, distinguishing it from Guayaquil, its coastal counterpart with a more Americanized influence.

In the heart of Ecuador lies Quito, a city steeped in history and brimming with a vibrant culinary landscape. One of the city's grandest establishments, Casa Gangotena, has stood the test of time and is renowned for its kitchen that has long been at the highest end of Quiteño cuisine.

Casa Gangotena's menu is a testament to the rich traditions of the people from all over Ecuador, as explained by Emilio Dalmau, the head chef. Locro de papas, a soup made with three types of potato and local spices, is ever-present on the menu, reflecting the essence of Quito's culinary heritage.

However, Quito's gastronomic scene extends beyond the confines of luxury hotels. The Canopy Bridge, a nonprofit network, connects indigenous farmers with food suppliers, providing many of the ingredients found in Quito's high-end restaurants. This symbiotic relationship ensures that the city's culinary offerings remain rooted in Ecuador's astonishing larder.

One such establishment that embodies this ethos is Fermento, a part-cooking cooperative and part-bar located in the La Vicentina neighbourhood. Launched immediately after the city's initial lockdown ended in response to the Covid-19 pandemic, Fermento hosts a rotating lineup of chefs in the old classrooms, with tables and chairs arranged in the former playground. Santiago Rosero, one of the pioneers behind Fermento, emphasizes his desire to be part of the community, rather than part of the gentrification.

Fermento's menu is a kaleidoscopic array of dishes, a reflection of the evolving culinary landscape in Quito. Llapingachos, fried potato cakes filled with cheese and served with peanut sauce, and Tripa mishqui, flame-seared cow intestines from Quito's La Vicentina neighbourhood, are among the local specialties served.

Quito's culinary offerings are not limited to traditional dishes. Somos, another of the fancier food addresses in town, is helmed by chef Alejandra Espinoza and her husband Signo Uddenberg. During the pandemic, they created La Guaguasería, a less elaborate restaurant with a new menu that showcases Espinoza's culinary evolution.

Quito's gastronomic scene also includes Bertrand Indemini's chocolate shop in the historic city center. Indemini, a chocolate master from Switzerland, offers demonstrations and tastings of Ecuador's native chocolates, showcasing the country's rich cocoa heritage.

Moreover, Agave Spirit Ecuador, located just north of the city, promotes miske, Ecuador's version of tequila, as the potential national drink. The facility includes an excellent agave museum, tastings, and a naming ritual for baby cacti.

Quito's culinary offerings are as diverse as they are delicious. From the traditional Locro de papas, a Quiteño staple, to the hearty and healthy Bolón de verde, originally from the coast but popular nationwide, there is something for everyone. Ceviche, a citrus-seasoned fish dish, is considered to be as good as anything found in Chile or Peru, despite Quito not being on the coast.

The value of putting Ecuador's larder to the fore has been recognized in Quito, and it's clear that the city's culinary scene is only set to grow and evolve. Whether you're a food enthusiast or simply looking for a delicious meal, Quito is a city that should not be missed.

This article was adapted from the website Traveller (UK).

Embracing Ecuador's native culinary riches, a shift towards indigenous cuisine has been acknowledged, distinguishing it from Guayaquil, its coastal counterpart with a more Americanized influence.