Major footwear manufacturers under scrutiny for toxic working conditions within Indian tanneries
The leather industry in Ranipet, Tamil Nadu, South India, is under scrutiny for environmental damage, unsafe conditions, and low wages. This hub supplies some of the world's biggest shoe brands, including H&M, Deichmann, Inditex, and Gabor Shoes.
Recent reports have highlighted the non-conformities found in Habeeb Tanning Company, a supplier to Spanish fashion conglomerate Inditex. The company has been subject to a complaint to the CPCB for pollution caused by illegal operations. Inditex acknowledged the issues and stated that steps were being taken to address them.
The tannery industry in Ranipet is not the only concern. Workers undertake hazardous tasks, such as manually cleaning toxic sludge from septic tanks, without protection, despite nationwide bans on the practice due to health risks. As a result, many workers, like Vedha Nayagi's nephew who tragically died from cancer, are exposed to harmful chemicals.
The situation is not unique to Ranipet. Across Tamil Nadu, at least 30% of tannery workers do not receive the state-mandated minimum wage of INR 11,130 (US$127.5) a month. In May 2023, Tamil Selvan, a tannery worker, died while cleaning a tannery's septic tank, overcome by toxic fumes.
European Union regulations, such as the Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive and the European Deforestation Regulation, aim to ensure fair and safe working conditions and environmental protection in supply chains, including Indian leather. However, their effectiveness in the Indian leather industry is currently limited by enforcement challenges, lack of transparency, and complex supply chains.
For instance, the 2023 European Deforestation Regulation, which comes into force on 30 December for larger companies, may face challenges in enforcement. European companies may label finished products as "Made in EU" even when raw hides come from countries like India, avoiding direct responsibility for hazardous local conditions.
Local stakeholders and experts express skepticism about the real impact of EU regulations without strong political will and detailed enforcement. Some Indian leather exporters are adopting standards such as the EU Business Social Compliance Initiative (BSCI) and SEDEX to promote fair labor and environmental responsibility. However, these are voluntary and unevenly applied.
Agreements like the UK-India CETA promote Indian leather exports and emphasize sustainability and technical standards alignment, potentially supporting better practices over time. Yet, this is more about market facilitation than direct regulation enforcement.
The Ranipet Leather Tannery Allied Labourers Protection Forum calls for fair wages, workplace safety, and access to essential social-security benefits such as health insurance and maternity leave. Mala, a tannery worker, alleges prolonged exposure to tannery chemicals, health issues, and a low standard of living despite earning slightly above the regional minimum wage.
Emma Thomson, of NGO Global Canopy, advocates for corporate transparency and disclosure of complaints, compliance processes, and suppliers' lists. Berndt Hinzmann, senior policy advisor at the German NGO Inkota, highlights the fear among workers of speaking out due to potential negative consequences or backlash.
The 2024 EU Directive on Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence requires large companies to address human rights and environmental risks across their supply chains. By 2026, EU member states must incorporate this legislation into their national laws.
Despite these challenges, regulations in the Indian leather sector have historically been shaped by the requirements of clients in Europe and the United States. The tannery industry is polluting the Palar River, a vital drinking water source for 50 villages and 30 towns, causing widespread health issues in nearby communities.
In conclusion, while EU regulations provide a strong framework for promoting fair labor and environmental standards in the Indian leather sector, their effectiveness is undermined by weak enforcement, supply chain complexity, lack of transparency, and insufficient political will in India. Multinational companies and local actors acknowledge improvements are needed beyond current regulatory intent to achieve real change.
- The leather industry's water security is compromised due to illegal operations and unsafe conditions in Ranipet, Tamil Nadu, where a portion of the world's leading shoe brands source their materials.
- Deforestation is not the only concern in this industry; corporate responsibility for fair wages, safe working conditions, and environmental protection is also at stake, as evidenced by the issues at Habeeb Tanning Company in Ranipet.
- Environmental-science experts hope that sustainability-focused education-and-self-development can encourage personal-finance conscious businesses to prioritize sustainable practices and reduce their impact on the environment.
- Finance is essential for facilitating the necessary technological advancements that could help the leather industry transition towards more sustainable practices, but it must align with the goals of social responsibility and environmental conservation.
- Science and technology enable the industry to identify and address environmental risks more effectively, while general-news platforms provide a platform for discussing these concerns and raising public awareness.
- The leather industry's lifestyle choices involving hazardous tasks have led to numerous health issues and tragic incidents, such as the death of workers cleaning septic tanks or from cancer due to chemical exposure.
- Sports and casino-and-gambling news outlets, in addition to their primary content, can contribute to this conversation by highlighting the ethical implications of consumer choices and raising awareness of the situation in the Indian leather industry.
- Sustainability and fair labor standards are intended to be promoted through voluntary initiatives such as the EU Business Social Compliance Initiative (BSCI) and SEDEX, but their effectiveness in the Indian leather industry remains questionable.
- Agreement like the UK-India CETA, while promoting Indian leather exports, may not directly address the issue of enforcement in regards to fair wages, workplace safety, and environmental protection, emphasizing instead market facilitation and technical standards alignment.
