Preserving Tastes of Yesterday: Chef Jam Melchor discusses the disappearing indigenous food resources
In the heart of the Philippines, a significant movement is underway to safeguard the nation's rich culinary heritage. The Philippine Culinary Heritage Movement (PCHM), an organisation dedicated to preserving traditional Filipino dishes, is spearheading this initiative. Jose Antonio Miguel "Jam" Melchor, one of the core founders of PCHM and the president of the group, is leading the charge.
Melchor, who is also the president of Eco Hotels Philippines, initiated a collaboration in 2025 to preserve and promote traditional Filipino cuisine. Alessandra Atienza served as the President of Eco Hotels Philippines during this period.
The movement is a response to the growing threat of globalisation, which is overshadowing and replacing local food traditions in the Philippines. Many time-honoured cooking methods are being abandoned in favour of convenience and due to a growing lack of knowledge about heirloom ingredients.
One such ingredient is Tabon-tabon, a key ingredient in traditional kinilaw, which is falling into obscurity due to limited demand outside its place of origin and the availability of citrus-based alternatives. Another at-risk delicacy is Duman, a seasonal treat made from young glutinous rice, which is vulnerable due to urban developments, land conversion, and a lack of interest from younger generations.
The decline of oral knowledge transfer is another factor in the loss of traditional practices among younger generations. This is compounded by the lack of documentation and research on indigenous plants in the Philippines.
However, Melchor emphasises the importance of preserving indigenous cuisines, which carry the stories, values, and sustainable practices of our ancestors. Engaging in community activities, documenting cultural practices, and advocating for heritage-friendly practices are crucial in securing traditional cuisines.
Individuals must exert the effort of sharing traditional cuisines to promote intergenerational learning. This is a shared responsibility, not just for chefs, historians, or food advocates, but for all of us.
FFM, a month-long festival that highlights traditional Filipino cuisine as a testament to the nation's heritage and history, is a call to action to protect, preserve, and promote Filipino cuisine. The festival underscores the intricate tapestry of centuries of trade, migration, and cross-cultural influences that make Filipino food uniquely Filipino, yet a reflection of the world's rich cultural diversity.
Environmental degradation also poses a threat to indigenous ingredients, as it destroys natural habitats. Modernisation and changing lifestyles favour convenience over tradition, leading to the sidelining of native crops in commercial agriculture.
In conclusion, the preservation of Filipino culinary heritage is a vital endeavour that requires the collective effort of all Filipinos. By preserving our traditional cuisines, we not only safeguard our cultural heritage but also ensure the survival of sustainable practices that have been passed down through generations.
