Revitalization of Issey Miyake Brand by Satoshi Kondo: "He Always Has a Tale to Spin"
In the heart of Hiroshima, Japan, nestled in the foothills of the Onomichi mountains, lies the LOG hotel. This unique establishment, whose name stands for 'Lantern Onomichi Garden', is a testament to the meticulous craftsmanship and innovative spirit that permeates the region. The hotel, renovated by Indian architecture firm Studio Mumbai, serves as a temporary home for designers who embody the same creative ethos, such as Satoshi Kondo.
Satoshi Kondo, the designer of Issey Miyake's women's line since 2019, is a man deeply rooted in tradition. His design philosophy is influenced by the central concept of 'a piece of cloth', a principle that resonates with Issey Miyake's design ethos. Kondo views clothing not as a fleeting trend, but as a fundamental necessity, a primal connection between the human body and fabric.
Kondo's ongoing work with Issey Miyake's women's line focuses on an ongoing enquiry into the potential of fabric. This exploration led to the creation of intricate and ephemeral kamiko fabric, a craft technique that roughly translates as 'paper cloth'. This unique fabric, crafted using a mix of washi and other materials to prevent it from disintegrating when wet, was used in the A/W 2024 collection.
The A/W 2024 collection, titled 'What Has Always Been', explores the primal desire to wrap the body with cloth. The collection, presented on a paper-covered runway, saw Kondo and his team explore the material's near-endless ability for transformation, creating dynamic silhouettes that were either intricately folded or undulated across their surface.
Kondo's designs are described as both 'spontaneous and deliberate', reflecting a growing momentum from the label. His work is not guided by trends from the wider industry, but rather by a desire to tell original stories. This approach was evident in the S/S 2025 show, titled 'The Beauty of Paper', which took place in a contemporary glass-walled pavilion in the Parc Floral de Paris botanic garden.
In addition to his work with Issey Miyake, Kondo's design process is characterized by a tenacity and perseverance, echoing the mindset of Issey Miyake. This dedication was evident in his first show after the namesake designer's death, held in September 2022, which featured washi, which Kondo printed his dedication to the designer on.
Kondo's designs reflect a comfortable relationship between the body and fabric, a philosophy rooted in traditional Japanese dressing rituals. His work has been complemented by hair stylists like Kabuto Okuzawa, whose intricate creations add an extra layer of artistry to Kondo's transformative designs.
LOG hotel, with its use of washi to replicate the feeling of floating within a paper lantern, serves as a fitting backdrop for designers like Satoshi Kondo. The hotel's name is a metaphor for the hotel's commitment to preserving and promoting traditional Japanese craftsmanship, a value that resonates with Kondo's own design philosophy.
In the world of fashion, Satoshi Kondo stands out as a designer who is not afraid to challenge convention and push the boundaries of what clothing can be. His designs, with their focus on pragmatism and wearability, are a testament to his commitment to telling original stories and exploring the potential of fabric.
