Spiti's Final Amber-Eyed Residents: A Heritage Perilously Preserved

In the remote and beautiful valley of Spiti, nestled amidst the Himalayas, lies a centuries-old healing tradition that continues to thrive. Known as Sowa Rigpa, this ancient Tibetan practice has its roots dating back approximately 2500 years. It is said that Shakyamuni Buddha manifested the medicinal form of himself while meditating in a forest, thus giving birth to Sowa Rigpa.

The core principles, theory, diagnosis, and treatment methods of Sowa Rigpa are outlined in the four Tibetan medicine tantras. The root tantra, rTsa rGyud, discusses various types of illnesses and imbalances in the body caused by the different elements. The subsequent tantra, Phyi ma rGyud, focuses on the identification of medicinal plants and the making of medicines. The explanatory tantra, bS`ad rGyud, delves into methods like pulse reading, urine observations, and genetic history for identifying illnesses. The oral instruction tantra, Man ngag rGyud, provides practical applications of the first two tantras.

Chhering Norbu, also known as Norbu ji, is one of the few surviving Amchis in Spiti. He feels a deep sense of responsibility to keep the tradition of Sowa Rigpa alive as a way of honoring his ancestors, serving his community, and preserving this precious knowledge. Norbu ji was encouraged to continue his practice as an Amchi by the village deity and the community. He was taught about illnesses and ways to diagnose them by his family and other senior Amchis from the valley.

In Spiti, the people do not have access to basic healthcare, but they have access to traditional Spitian doctors called Amchis. The Amchi system operates on a system of reciprocity, where people give what they can in return for treatment, such as a sack of rice or help when needed.

The youngest Amchi in Spiti practicing the traditional healing art of Sowa Rigpa is Tenzing Dorje, recognised for his dedication to preserving and promoting this ancient Tibetan medical knowledge. In recent times, the knowledge of Sowa Rigpa has been passed on not just from father to eldest son, but also to daughters. If there isn't a direct heir, the knowledge usually gets passed along to other children in the extended family.

The Ministry of Ayush recognises Amchis and has set up a Sowa Rigpa institute in Ladakh to promote quality education and research facilities. The knowledge of Sowa Rigpa was initially passed on by lineage, but it was formalised into a structured course in 1916 by the 13th Dalai Lama and is now taught at Men-Tse-Khang, Lhasa in Tibet.

Despite the challenges, the ancient healing tradition of Sowa Rigpa continues to flourish in Spiti, a self-contained world operating according to its own rules, traditions, norms, and sense of order. The rugged landscapes and Buddhist monasteries of Spiti serve as a testament to the resilience and endurance of this ancient practice.