The Emerging Policies of Sustainable Clothing Industry

In the face of growing concerns about environmental pollution and toxic chemicals, consumers are becoming more discerning about the fabrics they wear. Much like the care taken when reading food or skincare labels, people are now scrutinising clothing labels with renewed vigour.

However, investigations have revealed that items from fast fashion giants like Temu, Shein, and AliExpress have tested positive for harmful substances such as PFAS and BPA. These findings are concerning, as most shoppers remain unaware of these invisible dangers, with clothing labels rarely disclosing the chemical finishes used.

The appeal of "clean" fashion, made from organic cotton, hemp, bamboo, or silk, and typically free of synthetic dyes and chemical finishes, is personal for many. With people feeling overwhelmed by pollution and toxins in everyday life, the desire for garments that are better for both human and planetary health is growing.

Yet, the term "clean" in fashion lacks a clear legal definition in the U.S. and the EU, allowing brands to use terms like "natural" and "non-toxic" without any shared criteria. This vacuum in definitions means that the success of the clean fashion movement may be questionable if it relies on support from people who hold white supremacist and anti-environmental views.

PFAS and BPA are known to linger in the environment for years, even millennia, and accumulate over time. These chemicals can seep through the skin, disrupt hormones, weaken the immune system, impair fertility, and even raise cancer risk. Research has shown that harmful substances such as BPA and PFAS are commonly found in a wide range of garments and household textiles.

The greatest exposure to harmful substances in the fashion industry falls on people with the least protection and power in the supply chain, particularly Black and Brown garment workers. It is crucial that the clean fashion movement addresses this issue and ensures that workers are protected from the harmful effects of these chemicals.

The success of the 2023 update of American cosmetic safety laws, the first overhaul since 1938, serves as an example of progress when public pressure, science, and legislation align. Similarly, clean fashion has found support across the political spectrum, a rarity in an era when climate action usually divides along ideological lines.

However, proposed legislation to establish clearer chemical safety standards in the U.S. and the EU has faced industry pushback and sluggish implementation. Bridging ideological divides may be necessary to generate political will for meaningful regulation in the fashion industry.

For brands to truly embrace clean fashion, they must disclose how they screen ingredients, what testing they conduct, and who on staff has genuine expertise in chemical safety. Transparency and accountability are key to building trust with consumers and ensuring that the fashion industry moves towards a more sustainable and healthier future.